Wednesday, April 15, 2009
Join Us In Community
Sunday, April 12, 2009
Organic Vegetable Gardening Fete - May 9. 2009
Saturday, April 11, 2009
Workshop highlights
These are the "bullet" point sheets we will give you May 9 - basics we will cover in the demonstration.
Raised Bed construction:
Preparing the site/considerations
Is the site level?
Is the site an existing garden space or will it be constructed on a lawn area?
Amount of sunlight and irrigation
Existing garden space: Level approximate area and set frame level with stakes installed every 4' inside of the frame. Loosen soil with in frame with a garden fork and or shovel. Fill bottom with 2-4" of well rotted compost, cover with a layer of cardboard or 3-6 sheets wet newspaper and fill remaining 8" or so with composted garden soil, fertilizers, leaf mold.
Lawn area: Cut turf out within the dimensions of the frame with a metal edger and shovel saving the sod. Break up the soil with a garden fork or shovel and level area with a rake. Set frame level using stakes installed every 4' inside of frame. Lay sod upside down inside frame and cover with cardboard or wet newspaper. Fill remaining *" or so with your garden soil.
Construction:
Materials ( for a 4' x 12' raised bed)
- (2) 12', 2x10
- (2) 3'9" , 2x10
- (4) 18" - 24" corner braces with a 45 degree angle cut on ends
- (1) 3'9" 2x4 mid-support
- 3 1/2 " nails or screws - galvanized or stainless
- (4-6) 2-3' 2x4 stakes
Description:
- Nail together frame "upside down" next to prepared site.
- Square frame using 3' 4' 5' triangle method, or by measuring diagonally both ways making sure to have even measurements.
- Attach corner braces when frame is square
- Install mid-support at center
- Flip the frame over into prepared soil and level by driving stakes every 4' inside and attaching to frame using nails or screws.
- Fill the frame as described above, plan your garden, and Happy Planting!
Questions? - Ask for Dane at Seaside Gardens Inc. - 165 Hummock Pond Road or call: 508-228-1732
Square Foot Gardening:
Planning
– Grow only what you will use
– Draw a map and use it (don’t forget to save it for next year)
– Rely on succession planting to extend the growing season
– Practice crop rotation
Benefits of Raised Bed Gardening
– Better production per square foot
– Easy to amend and fortify soil
– Advantageous for water conservation
– Easier on the back
– Less difficult to control pests
– Warms up faster so seeds and seedlings can be started earlier
Basic Rules of Square Foot Gardening
– Don’t walk on the growing soil. (easier to accomplish with a raised bed)
– Keep replanting each square as it is harvested.
– Cover newly planted seeds and seedlings to protect them.
– Water with sun warmed water.
– Add humus (organic matter) to the soil every time you plant a crop.
– Plant only 1-2 seeds in their final spacing.
– Use spacing rules for 12” square
Spacing and Planting
– One plant per 12” grid
· Vine tomatoes, broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, corn, eggplant, musk melon, peppers
– Four plants per 12” grid
· Swiss chard, leaf lettuce, parsley
– Nine plants per 12” grid
· Bush beans, spinach
– Sixteen plants per 12” grid
· Beets, radishes, carrots, onions
Reference Material
Bartholomew, Mel. Square Foot Gardening. The Rodale Press, 2005.
www.squarefootgardening.com
And another from Natalie who will be demonstrating Square Foot planting techniques May 9
Square Foot Gardening Bullet Points
1. What Is the square foot method?
-squares Instead of rows
- plant only what you desire to harvest
- reduce material and water waste
- reduce maintenance ie. weeding, thinning etc
2. Climbing/ VinIng plants
-vertical structures
- space saving and easier on the back to harvest
3. Companion planting
- pest deterrent crops ie. onions, garlic, marigolds and nasturtiums
plated In alternating squares.
- legumes In the garden and as cover crops such as red clover
NITROGEN FIXING
4. Crop rotation
- prevent nutrient deficiency
- prevent pest attraction
5. Succession Planting (kind of like companion planting but different
because It deals with timing)
-always have a continuous harvest-- don't get stuck with 56 carrots
all at the same time!
- quick maturing vs long season crops (Inter sowing In the same
space) ie. radishes and carrots or arugula and peppers
6. Planting
for this I will show how to direct sow and also how to transplant
seedlings I will also go through the logistics of buying,storing and
planting: seed potatoes, onion sets and garlic cloves
- placement of full sun and partial sun vegetables
7. Harvest
Don't treat your soil like dirt!
This is part of the "bullet points" for soils - in general, but specifically for the raised beds workshops. - from Natalie
Soil filling/ mixing bullet points:
Importance of healthy soil:
-high organic matter
-high rate of microorganisms and bacteria
-how synthetic fertilizers and excessive and unnecessary
pesticides/fungicides will set soil health back
2. Soil Structure-
-sand, silt and clay plus at least 8%-12% Organic matter
-drainage
-how soil should feel In the hand/ the clumping test
3. Amendments for sandy Nantucket soil
-peat moss/ vermiculite
-green sand
-compost
-well rotted manure
-leaf mold
-humus and how It works (don't worry I wont go Into cationic exchange
capacity)
-Importance of earthworms!
4. Fertilizers
I don't really use fertilizers often I rely on healthy soils
-organic vs. synthetic
-slow release vs quick release
DON'T FEED THE PLANT FEED THE SOIL
5. PH
-Importance of PH being right for the plant
-plant cannot access nutrients unless PH Is right
- Nantucket PH, soil tests and amendments like lime and wood as
Lasagna Gardening
· Based on commonsense approach w/ readily available natural materials
· Saves work, energy, time and money.
· After the initial installation you simply mulch each spring-no tilling or digging required!
· Layers keep garden bed cool and damp, requiring less watering
· Recycles household wastes on site into fertilizer and mulch & keeps it out of the landfills.
- Chemical free, healthy for your family and the environment.
* Planting Basics:
· Soil Test; ask for “organic” recommendations.
· “Charge” existing soil with water, amend to adjust pH if needed
· Smother grass & weeds with thick pads of black & white News Paper or clean Cardboard, making sure to over lap edges by 3-4 inches
· Next add 2-3 inches of peat or pine duff, for paths add wood chips instead.
· Then spread 4-8 inch layer of organic mulch.
· Repeat peat/mulch layers until 18+ inches.
- Each bed will be different depending on your materials.
* “Cooking” the Bed; reduces height & creates a loose, crumbly soil quickly.
· Use 4X as much brown (carbon) material such as peat moss, hay, straw, & chopped leaves, small twigs-as you do green (high-nitrogen) materials such as kitchen scraps, and fresh manure. ** Use a compost thermometer to check that the temperature of the beds reach 150F when using fresh manure.
· Apply material in 4-6 inch layers while at the same time sprinkling organic soil amendments such as wood ash (clean), sea weed (washed), oyster shells (crushed), bone meal, as well as lime or sulfur to adjust pH.
· Be sure to check all the products you purchase have an OMRI (Organic Materials Review) seal on the packaging to be sure it is completely “organic”.
· When the bed is18-24 inches high, cover with a dark material such as plastic, or cover with a thick layer of old straw that is weed seed free.
· With the right amount of sun, moisture and temperature the bed will break down into beautiful soil in 6-8 weeks, with the help of billions of living organisms in the soil.
Lead by Dylan Wallace & Claudia Butler
NOFA Accredited Organic Land Care Professionals
Nantucket Native, specializing in Edible and Medicinal Plants
Contact: nantucketnative@gmail.com
Sources
* LASAGNA GARDENING: A NEW LAYERING SYSTEM FOR BOUNTIFUL GARDENS: NO DIGGING, NO TILLING, NO WEEDING, NO KIDDING! By Patricia Lanza. St. Martin’s Press, 1998.
* OMRI web site has current products lists and publications,http://www.omri.org/.
* NOFA information & handbook, http://www.nofamass.org/pubs/
Container Gardening
If you have a sunny space for a pot on your patio,deck, windowbox, you have room enought to grow summer veggies. For some varieties it is best to choose compact varieties, expect to train vining crops like bean, pea, squash on supports.
Containers: Large - from 18 to 24 inches wide and 12-16 inches deep will keep roots from drying out quickly and give them room to grow. Plastic, terracotta, wood - with drainage holes.
Potting Soil: I use a commercial mix that includes pine bark and is not too fine - there are organic potting soils but I don't have experience with them yet.
Fertilizers: aged chicken manure 3 parts potting soil to one part chicken. I would also add 1/2 cup of bone meal in a 24 inch pot - less for smaller. The liquid organic fertilizers are good - especially if you are noticing deficiencies - yellow leafs, yellow margins on your leafs - I use fish based products and foliar feed as well - spray or pour over leafs - Neptunes Harvest claims it repels deer..